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Two Contrasting London Breweries Introduction Both of these London breweries are independent ones. Fuller's (Fuller, Smith and Turner) (www.fullers.co.uk, www.fullers-ales.com (North American site)), which is based in Chiswick (www.chiswickw4.com), is a classic producer of Real Ales. The Meantime Brewery, in Charlton, in the Borough of Greenwich (The Greenwich Brewery) (www.meantimebrewing.com), is an unusual brewery for the UK, in that its portfolio includes a number of Czech, German and Vienna style beers, as well as some superb renditions of some famous English beer styles, see below. For most of the places featured, I quote their post code; plugging this into www.streetmap.co.uk provides a location map, as does the more versatile maps.google.co.uk. All the pubs mentioned feature Real Ale, a termed coined by the UK's premier beer consumers' organisation, CAMRA (www.camra.org.uk), the Campaign for Real Ale, in 1971, the first year of its existence. The formation of CAMRA truly did save Real Ale for the nation, at a time when the big brewers were seemingly trying to kill it off, by forcing the beer drinking public to drink poor imitations of Pilsner style beers (called Lager in the UK), along with ghastly, pasteurised and filtered fizzes, such as the infamous Watney's Red Barrel; Real Ale is unpasteurised and unfiltered. I denote whether any pubs mentioned appear in CAMRA's Good Beer Guide (GBG), e.g. GBG 2007 means that the place in question appears in the 2007 edition (published in September, 2006). Note that, should a place not appear in the GBG, it could, but does not necessarily mean that it does not serve Real Ale, or that there are problems with its Real Ale; the choice of pubs competing for entry is so great that a number of places serving Real Ale in tip-top condition have to be excluded for space reasons. Also, if, for example, a pub is in the 2006 guide, but not the 2007 one, it can by no means be assumed that its beer quality has deteriorated. Most pubs are typically open seven days a week from 11am (Noon on Sunday) to 11pm (10.30pm on Sunday). If a pub that is featured opens at significantly different times to these, they will be detailed. Note that licensing laws in England and Wales were subject to a major reform in November, 2005, with the much publicised introduction of twenty-four hour drinking. However, licences for this have only been granted to a small proportion of pubs, these not being typically of interest to the lover of Real Ale. However, many Real Ale outlets have extended their hours, to, for example, open at 10am in the morning and close an hour later at night, i.e. at Midnight. Fuller's Brewery, Chiswick Lane South, London, W4 2QB, tel 020 8996 2000,
The above photo was taken by John White, inside the Fuller's Brewery, in December, 2005. On the left is John Keeling, the Fuller's Brewing Director. He is with Matthias Trum, the proprietor of both "Heller-Bräu" - Trum, a truly famous brewery, in Bamberg, Germany, and its world-class tavern, the Schlenkerla (www.schlenkerla.de and www.smokebeer.com (English-language pages), White Beer Travels Web page). The Schlenkerla, the most famous outlet in the world for Rauchbier (Smoke Beer), gives its name to its beers, Schlenkerla Rauchbier. John and Matthias are standing in front of a "London" Copper that was used from 1823 (i.e. before any involvement by Fuller's on the site) until 1984; it now forms part of the museum that is integrated with the operational brewery, this also including one of the open fermenters that were replaced by cylindro-conical ones in 1976. The visit to Fuller's took place on the same day as the annual dinner of the British Guild of Beer Writers (www.beerwriters.co.uk). John White and Matthias Trum, a guest of the Guild's at the dinner, were both present to see John Keeling get the Guild's Beer and Brewing Award, particular reference being made to his introduction, in 2005, of a new beer: Discovery. John joined Fullers on the 5th of January, 1981. Brewing has taken place on the Fuller's site for over 350 years, i.e. since 1654. The first Fuller to be involved in brewing on the Chiswick site, was John Fuller, who became a partner, in 1829, in the brewery then operating on the site. After the partnership was dissolved, in 1845, his son, John Bird Fuller, was joined in the running of the brewery by Henry Smith and his brother-in-law, John Turner, thereby forming Fuller Smith & Turner, as Fuller's is still officially known today. Descendents of these three families are still involved in the running of the Griffin Brewery, as it is called on its logo. We started off our tour of the brewery in John Keeling's office, where he offered us a glass of Anniversary Ale, which was brewed in 2005 to commemorate 160 years of the Fuller Smith & Turner partnership. Fittingly, it was matured for 160 days prior to bottling. Other special beers were also mentioned on the visit, including one matured in a Jim Beam Bourbon wooden barrel and one in a Glenmorangie Malt Whisky Barrel. This process is known as Grogging. These may or may not see the light of day, commercially, although I did manage to get a taste of the Jim Beam one, in a special pub the day after the visit to Fuller's. Fuller's are often criticised by some Real Ale fans for using Cylindro-Conical Fermenters rather than traditional squares. John told us an interesting story about them. When they were first introduced in 1976, it was intended that they would be used for the production of keg beers, since, despite the formation of CAMRA, in 1971, Fuller's took the view that Cask Ale had had its day. However, soon after their introduction, there was a problem with the squares, and so Real Ale production was transferred to the new fermenters. The Fuller's yeast really took a liking to them, so they became the prime route fro the production of Real Ale, demand for which took off shortly after. All of the original squares, bar one "museum piece" have been replaced, in 2004, by further Cylindro-Conical Fermenters, supplied by the Burton upon Trent company, Briggs of Burton (www.briggsplc.co.uk). These were officially opened by the famous wine expert, Oz Clarke (who also likes his beer). Interestingly, on visits, which can be booked on the Fuller's website, you will note that there is an entry in the "old" cylindro-conical vessels to crop the yeast from the top. In the event, the yeast has transformed into a bottom cropper, so these entries are no longer used for their original purpose. The same yeast that is used in the fermenters is also used for the bottle-conditioned beers. Some parts of the process remain traditional. John pointed out that traditional methods are used if they are considered to be best for the production of beers of the highest quality, and likewise, "new technology" such as Cylindro-Conical Fermenters are used simply because they produce, for Fuller's, better beer than squares. John also made the point that Fuller's beers have been voted Champion Beer of Britain at CAMRA's Great British Beer Festival five times and on each occasion, it was with beers produced in the new fermenters and when the Parti-Gyle system of mashing whereby a high gravity (1080 OG) wort is blended with a second washing of lower strength (1020 OG) to variously produce Chiswick Bitter, London Pride and ESB. Note that these are quite different beers, not just the same beer with a different strength, since, for example, Chiswick and ESB are more hoppy, these being dry-hopped, whereas the less hoppy, London Pride, is not. Real Ale versions of both Chiswick and ESB are dry-hopped in tank using "pillows" full of hop flowers, and are then dry-hopped again in cask with half ounce pellets. Discovery is a separate brew that is hopped with Liberty and Saaz hops. In the mash, there is Pale Ale and Carapils Malt, along with Malted Wheat. We ended our visit, as do most brewery visits, in The Hock Cellar, a marvellous bar within the brewery grounds, that is full of breweriana.
1771 Engravings by William Hogarth (1697-1764) It is often said, without explanation, that Fuller's is near the Hogarth Roundabout. In fact, it is named after William Hogarth, a painter, engraver and satirist. The above, engravings are his two most famous works. They will be familiar to many beer lovers, as they are very frequently used to illustrate books on the history of beer; "Gin Lane" depicts the bad effects of drinking Gin, whereas, "Beer Street" depicts the virtue of, er, drinking beer. Click here for an article on "Gin Lane" and Beer Street", in The Literary Encyclopedia website. The "country" home of Hogarth, in which he lived periodically from 1749 until his death, is only 100 yards/metres from the roundabout: Hogarth's House, Hogarth Lane, Great West Road (A4), W4 2QN, tel 020 8994 6757. It can be visited; much of his work, including the gin and beer ones mentioned, is on display. Hogarth is buried nearby, in the graveyard around St. Nicholas's Church, on Church Street/Chiswick Mall, W4 2PJ, very close to the Thames. Hogarth's house and this Church are on the previously mentioned Fuller's map that can be seen by clicking here.
Fuller's have some marvellous pubs in London and beyond, and we visited some of them. One that was certain to be on the itinerary was a particularly famous and historic one that is on the side of the River Thames, only a short walk from the brewery, the don't-miss, Grade II listed "The Dove" (19 Upper Mall, W6 9TA, tel 020 8748 9474, GPS: 51.490683o N, 0.234550o W, GBG 2006 and GBG 2007 page 313). Fuller's have had this exquisite place for a long, long time; it can generally be spotted on the Boat Race TV coverage each year. The two photos above, which were taken by John White, in November, 2005, are respectively, outside and in The Dove. In the foreground, of the photo on the left (which was take from the very close by Hammersmith Pier (as it is named on maps, although it is badged the "Dove Pier) is the pub's drinking area, directly on the side of the river. The superb terrace has a most aesthetically pleasing ledge for one's ESB, all along the river side edge of it. Inside, The Dove is top-class, with the place's history displayed on the walls, such as the penning of Rule Britannia! in the place. The Dove has a number of rooms, and the photo, above right, was taken in the smallest of them, which is a bit of an understatement, as there is a Guinness Book of Records certificate on the wall declaring it the "Smallest Public Room Bar". Note the pump clips on the handpumps are turned towards the main bar, as per those at the top of another White Beer Travels Web page; note the beer descriptions, tasting notes and strength information on the back, which would normally be pointing towards the person serving you, to provide such information, should you ask it of him/her. In November, 2005, in The Dove, Fuller's ESB was £2.80, and London Pride (4.1%) and Discovery (3.9%), were both £2.65. The Dove is at the Eastern end of Upper Mall, where it becomes a very narrow alley, before Furnival Gardens is reached. Heading North from here, one can cross the Great West Road, using an underpass and reach Ravenscourt Park Tube Station, on Ravenscourt Road. Slightly closer to this tube station than The Dove is another Fuller's pub, The Andover Arms (57 Aldensley Road, W6 0DL, tel 020 8741 9794, GBG 2006, GBG 2007 page 313). Although it does very good pub food, this is served in a separate area, so does not intrude on the drinking area, which is a classic locals' pub, which just happens to be The Beer Hunter (www.beerhunter.com), Michael Jackson's local. A good selection of special pubs in London, such as The Dove and The Andover Arms, are featured in White Beer Travels Notes (eighty-three pages) covering London, which can be downloaded from the site's Downloads page. Note that London's other major indepenent brewer was Young's (www.youngs.co.uk), who for centuries brewed in the suburb of Wandsworth, on the other side of the river to Fuller's. However, Young's merged with Charles Wells (www.charleswells.co.uk), of Bedford, in 2006, and the Young's Brewery was closed. It is expected that Young's pubs wil remain Young's pubs, selling Young's beers, brewed in Bedford. How to get to Fuller's Brewery Transport for London (www.tfl.gov.uk)'s excellent Journey Planner (www.tfl.gov.uk/journeyplanner), tells you that the nearest bus stop to the Fuller's Brewery is called "Chiswick Lane North - Balfern Grove", which is reached on a number 190 bus going from Hammersmith Broadway Bus Station (Stop G) to Richmond; the site provides a map for the short walk from the bus stop, which comes after the stop named "Stamford Brook - Bus Garage". The easiest public transport option is tube train; the nearest tube station for Fuller's is Turnham Green. Note that very close to this is a very special pub, the Grade II* listed Tabard, (GBG 2004, GBG 2005 page 311), at 2 Bath Road, W4 1LN. To get to Fuller's, turn left, onto Turnham Green Terrace, out of the tube station (the opposite direction to that required for the Tabard) and you will soon reach Chiswick High Road (A315); on the corner, note Jim Mathieson's 2001 statue of William Hogarth (covered shortly) with his Pug dog, c.f. one of his self-portraits. After crossing Chiswick High Road, get yourself onto Devonshire Road, which is a little to the right off the High Road. At the South end of Devonshire Road, you will be able to see Fuller's, on the other side of the infamous Hogarth Roundabout, the main road crossing it being the A4, which leads to the M4 Motorway for Heathrow Airport and the West of England. There is an underpass to get you safely to the other side of the roundabout. Walk alongside the brewery in the direction of London, and turn right at The Mawson Arms, and the brewery reception is on the right, in the yard turned into on the right. Close to the roundabout, is The George & Devonshire (8 Burlington Lane, W4 2QE, tel 020 8994 1859, GBG 2006 and GBG 2007 page 312), an excellent, multi-roomed Fuller's pub. There is a map produced by Fuller's, which can be seen by clicking here, which shows the position of the tube station and the bus stop covered earlier in this paragraph, along with the Fuller's pubs mentioned; it does not show the underpass used to get to the other side of the Hogarth Roundabout, but it is there, honest. Meantime Brewing Co (The Greenwich Brewery), 2 Penhall Road, London, SE7 8RX, tel 020 8293 1111,
The above photo was taken by John White, inside Meantime Brewery, in December, 2005. On the left is "celebrity brewer" Alastair Hook, the founder of Meantime and its Brewmaster. With Alex is the world's most famous producer of Smoke Beer (Rauchbier), Matthias Trum, see above. In their hands, Alex and Matthias have glasses of Meantime Smoked Bock. Alastair Hook studied brewing at the "International Centre for Brewing and Distilling", at Heriot-Watt University, in Edinburgh, Scotland (www.bio.hw.ac.uk/icbd/icbd.htm), and then, like Matthias, he then did post-graduate studies in the famous Weihenstephan Brewing School (www.wzw.tum.de), in Freising, in Bavaria. Alastair then worked at the Spaten Brauerei München (Spaten Brewery, in Munich) (www.spatenbraeu.de), and the König Ludwig Schlossbrauerei Kaltenberg (King Ludwig Castle Brewery Kaltenberg), in Fürstenfeldbruck, near Munich (www.kaltenberg.com). He then returned to England, where he co-founded the Freedom Brewery, in London (www.freedombeer.com), in 1995, and then spent some time at another London microbrewery, "Mash", before setting up Meantime, in 1999. He has brought many of the things associated with German breweries to the brewing of Speciality/Specialty/Craft Beers at Meantime, such as no additives, long maturation (lagering) times, the use of a Lauter Tun for wort filtering, etc, etc. The Brewery was supplied by DME Brewing Services (www.dmebrewing.ca), who are based in Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Canada. Alastair's beers include the "Taste the Difference" range for the UK's Sainsbury's supermarket chain, and Meantime's own range of beers, which includes "Coffee" (there is 20% in the mash), and a Real Ale, Meantime Blonde (4.5%), for its superb Greenwich pub, the Greenwich Union (56 Royal Hill, London, SE10 8RT, www.greenwichunion.co.uk), where all the beers are served in lined glasses, so one is sure of getting a complete pint. A selection of Meantime beers are also available alongside beers produced in a Brew Pub within the Vinopolis "World of Wine" place (www.vinopolis.co.uk), which is very close to Borough Market, the "Beer Wharf", www.meantimebrewing.com/brew_wharf.html, a companion to the "Wine Wharf" wine bar (www.winewharf.com), in the same premises. Beer Wharf's Meantime Beers include their bottle-conditioned (Real Ale in a bottle) versions of two classic English beers: India Pale Ale (7.5%) (www.india-pale-ale.com); and London Porter (6.5%) (www.london-porter.com). Meantime beers, including the last two mentioned, are imported into the USA by Bob Leggett and Lanny Hoff's Artisanal Imports, www.artisanalimports.com, who are based in Austin, Texas. Note that it is expected that in the Borough Market area that a beer equivalent of Vinopolis will be opened: Beeropolis. This "Beer Museum" is an initiative of world-renowned beer writer, Roger Protz (1939-) (www.beer-pages.com). Meantime are involved in this important development. John White (1945-), |
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