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Lorenzo Dabove - Kuaska - a True Ambassador for Belgian Beer and for other Quality Speciality/Specialty/Craft Beer from around the World Introduction Lorenzo Dabove is unquestionably Italy's most famous Beer Hunter. Lorenzo is also known as Kuaska, hence the name of his website. Kuaska is a poetical character, which requires the donning of a pair of very large ears! With these on, Kuaska usually plays a nose flute or two! I am privileged to count Kuaska as a real friend, and not just a beer acquaintance. Click here, here, here, here, and here, for other White Beer Travels Web pages that feature Kuaska. Lorenzo is renowned for his promotion of Belgian Beer and other quality Speciality/Specialty/Craft Beers, such as those from the USA, but, of course, he is also a great supporter of Italian Beer, well Italian Speciality or Artisanal Beer. He is a Taster and the Cultural Director (degustatore e Direttore Culturale) of Unionbirrai (www.unionbirrai.com), the Italian organisation that represents Italy in the European Beer Consumers' Union (EBCU) (www.ebcu.org). The longer title of Unionbirrai is Associazone Culturale Birra Artigianale (Cultural Association for Artisanal Beer). The Unionbirrai website provides links to the websites of all its member breweries. Lorenzo attends and participates in major beer events around the world, including ones in his own country, such as: the Artebirra Pasturana Beer Festival (www.artebirra.com), in Pasturana, near Novi Ligure, which features unpasteurised and unfiltered beers that have no additives; and the beer events at the Salone del Gusto (www.salonedelgusto.com), a prestigious, five-day food and drink event, covering, for example, bread, pasta, cheese, olive oil, chestnuts and chestnut flower honey, white truffles, vinegar, wine and beer, the latter being surprisingly well represented. Salone del Gusto is held every two years in Turin (Torino), organised by Slow Food® (www.slowfood.it), who campaign for a return to traditional farming and production methods, use of local ingredients, etc. At the event, Lorenzo runs Taste Workshops (Laboratori del Gusto), alongside other prestigious people from the world of Speciality/Specialty/Craft Beer, such as the world's most famous beer writer, Michael Jackson (1942-) (www.beerhunter.com). In 2006, it ran from the 26th to the 30th of October. During a September/October, 2004 visit to Milan I was privileged to attend one of Lorenzo's tastings, see below; it was a superb event, which was really appreciated by his growing number of disciples. I first bumped into Lorenzo, by chance, in 1998, in De Mug (www.demug.nl), a world-class Specialty Beer bar, in Middelburg, in Zeeland, in The Netherlands (click here for a White Beer Travels Web page covering it). In the photo, above left, which was taken by De Mug's proprietor, Barend Midavaine, at the time of this first encounter, we are drinking Zeeuwse Kriek, from the defunct Hopbloem brewery, in Middelburg. Within a matter of days, I chanced upon Lorenzo again, in Bruges, in Belgium, and then a few months later, there he was on an underground train platform in London; we were both on our way to the GBBF. Since then we have met on many occasions connected with beer, and Lorenzo has become a true friend to both myself and my wife, Joyce, and to many others. It is impossible not to like Lorenzo. Lorenzo's particular love is Belgium's unique Lambic style of beer that is found in Brussels and the adjoining Payottenland area, in the Belgian Province of Flemish Brabant (Vlaams-Brabant); not for nothing is Lorenzo known as the "Prince of the Payottenland" (prins van het Pajottenland). On asking Lorenzo where he got this nickname, he explained that one day he was visiting the Payottenland with Stephen D'Arcy, of Brussels CAMRA, who was amazed by the fact that wherever they went, everyone they came across seemed to know Lorenzo, which prompted Stephen to remark: "Lorenzo, you surely are the Prince of the Payottenland." In the photo above right, Lorenzo is giving a plug to a book called LambicLand LambikLand, by Tim Webb and Chris (Podge) Pollard. This don't-enter-the-Payottenland-without book can be purchased from Tim's website, www.booksaboutbeer.com, which provides further information on the book, as does a White Beer Travels Web page featuring it, which can be reached by clicking here. The photo was taken by John White, in August, 2004, at the end of Lorenzo's excellent tutored tasting of Belgian Strong Beers, at CAMRA's Great British Beer Festival, see above. Lorenzo/Kuaska's support and enthusiasm for beers from the Pajottenland and the rest of Belgium is known to all followers of Speciality/Craft Beer, but it is also recognised at ministerial level in Belgium. At a March, 2004 event to support the beers for which Brussels and the neighbouring Pajottenland is justly famous, but which are under threat, one of the attendees was Herman De Croo, the Chairman of the Belgian Federal Parliament and Minister of State. After the event, he wrote to the organiser, about Kuaska, who made a speech at the event, as follows: " ... I have already seen many things in my life, but the fact that a very skilled Italian beer connoisseur praises the beers of the Pajottenland in English to beer lovers from London and Washington, is unique ... ". The website covering the event venue, a superb pub in the Pajottenland, In De Verzekering Tegen De Grote Dorst, is www.dorst.be (relays to dorst.eizeringen.tripod.com). Click here for a White Beer Travels Web page covering it. In the photo, above right, Lorenzo is sporting an In De Verzekering Tegen De Grote Dorst T-Shirt. Lorenzo was born in Milan, in the Region of Lombardy (Lombardia), in Northern Italy, in 1952, but his family's roots are in Genoa (Genova), the famous seafaring city, South of Milan, in the Region of Liguria. Typically, Lorenzo spends half of each year in each city. Note that from January, 2005, Italy joined Ireland's lead in Europe in banning smoking in bars and restaurants, etc. For me, this was great news. England followed their great examples in July, 2007; for a non-smoker, it makes going to the pub far more pleasant and indeed feasible; there are lots of otherwise good places that I just cannot contemplate entering because of the ridiculously unpleasant smoke levels produced by inconsiderate tobacco junkies. |
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Beer Hunting with Lorenzo, in Milan / Milano, Italy In September/October, 2004. Joyce and I visited Milan and Florence (Firenze), in Italy. Italy is not the first name that comes to mind when one thinks of Speciality Beer, but Lorenzo was our guide on the Milan part of the trip, so I knew that it would be very special, to quote from one of his e-mails at the organisational stage of the trip: "I will arrange your visit making it unforgettable!". This proved to be an understatement. The places visited were truly first-class and Lorenzo was an embarrassingly good host. The Florence part of the trip is covered below. On the trip, Lorenzo kindly gave me a copy of Birre Italia Annuario Directory 2004-2005 (Beverfood Edizioni, ISBN 88-88152-05-9), an excellent information source on the beer scene in Italy. In this edition, there are articles on Lambic by Lorenzo. Sections in it include: annual beer statistics for Italy; large breweries and International brewing groups operating in Italy; suppliers of equipment; and Italy's microbreweries and Brew Pubs, 113 in this category being listed. Lorenzo took us to one of these Brew Pubs in Milan, see below, and one in Lurago Marinone, see below, both of which proved to be exceptionally good. We also partook of the wonderful beers from one which could be scheduled for a visit on this trip, see below, and we visited two superb bars in Milan, which are covered below and below. Other places could have been squeezed in during the trip, see below, but Lorenzo was anxious that we saw the very best of what Italy has to offer in the way of Speciality Beer. I am totally convinced that he achieved this; I was mega impressed with the places he took us to and the beers that we sampled; it is clear that they are at the very pinnacle of Italian beer establishments/beers; they stand up to the best that more famous brewing nations such as the UK, Belgium and Germany have to offer. Many, many thanks, Lorenzo for introducing us to them.
The following are the beer-orientated places that Lorenzo took Joyce and I to. Unless indicated otherwise, they are all in Milan. One was only visited in spirit, or should I say, in beer, see below! It is worth pointing out that all the places on the agenda were top-class, places that must be visited by the discerning beer lover when in Milan, nay in Europe. I mention this because, quite often, the beer lover, when on holiday in places such as Spain, only comes across bars that have some token Belgian Beers that he or she would not dream of drinking in Belgium itself. Of course, with Lorenzo as our guide, we were bound to be taken to exceptional beer-orientated places, which, as a bonus, all had very good food. Clearly, although Milan is a big city, it is not teeming with such exceptional places, but with its world-class tourist attractions and good food, and of course, wine, for those who also like this, as it possesses the handful of special places that I detail below, it is a city that I can heartily recommend for the lover of world-class Speciality Beer, which, in Italy, is generally called Birra Artigianale (Artisanal Beer). And as a final, but for me, major bonus, the enjoyment that one gets from the superb beer and food that they offer is greatly enhanced by Italy's most civilised stance on smoking, see above. Birrificio Lambrate This marvellous Brew Pub was visited with Lorenzo on the 2004 trip. Full details of it are provided in a companion Web page to this, which can be reached by clicking here. Birrificio Italiano® The "Italian Brewery" Brew Pub, note the Registered Trademark symbol (®) in its name in the title to this section, is to be found in the small town of Lurago Marinone, which is thirty-two kilometres (twenty miles) NW of Milan, near the Swiss border. The visit, with Lorenzo, to this outstanding place is covered in the just sub-page to this Web page; click here to reach it. Le Baladin A feature of the 2004 trip to Milan was that the superb beers from this Brew Pub kept popping up in bars and other places that Lorenzo took us to. Therefore, I cover it in the companion Web page that features a select group of Italian Brewing establishments, which can be reached by clicking here. Mulligans Irish Pub Despite its name, when in Milan, Mulligans is an essential place to visit for the Speciality/Craft Beer lover. In many places in Europe, other than in Ireland itself, lovers of good beer tend to avoid Irish pubs, but this place truly is not to be missed. It has a changing British Real Ales (Cask Ales) supplied by the Real Ale Society (www.realalesociety.com), and a very good selection of Belgian Beers and Italian Beers. In the photo, above left, which was taken by Joyce White, in September, 2004, Beppe Alviero, the most genial patron of Mulligans, is on the left. In our glasses is a superb Blackcurrant Beer, Cassissona (6.4%), from Birrificio Italiano, click here for more details. We visited this brewery the next night, where we would sample the beer again, along with others from this very special brewery's portfolio. On the table are the classy bottles for this beer, and behind us is a poster for it. Also playing a big role in Mulligans, is Beppe's brother, Alviero, and his sister, Odette, who is the cook, the food being excellent in Mulligans. Many Irish pubs look like they have been knocked together from some corporate plan, but the decor of this place is excellent and truly authentic. The solid wood servery is most impressive: it was imported from Ireland. The cask for the changing Real Ale served from the beginning of each month is actually placed on one end of the servery, attached to a handpump alongside it. On our September, 2004 visit, after an excellent meal, we attended one of Lorenzo's tutored tastings in the cellar in Mulligans. Beers featured were Sara, a Buckwheat Beer, and Noël de Silenrieux, both from the Brasserie Silenrieux, in Wallonia, the French-speaking half of Belgium. The photo, above right, which was taken by John White, in September, 2004, shows Lorenzo conducting the tasting. Lorenzo spoke with passion and at great length about these excellent and rare beers, surely getting new converts to Speciality Beers, both Belgian and others. It was typical of many others that he runs up and down the country and beyond. As can be seen, at this one in Mulligans, he was wearing a Great British Beer Festival, 2004 staff T-Shirt, see above. Those present at the tasting included Fabrizio Vallefuelo, of Beer Concept Italia (www.beerconcept.it), the company who import renowned beers such as the Cantillon range, including the draught Lambic sampled on the visit a couple of days later, see below. Before and after the tasting we had some other beers. In addition to Birrificio Italiano's Cassissona, featured in the photo above, we had a number of beers from Le Baladin, including Super and Isaac, more details of which can be obtained by clicking here. There is no list for the bottled Belgian Beers, these changing regularly, but Beppe rattled off a list of his current offerings, all of which were very respectable beers indeed. As we were leaving, Beppe most kindly offered me a parting Malt Whisky, one of his real passions, along with Jazz, this being the excellent, non-intrusive background music. Some of the Malt Whisky available in Mulligans is what Beppe has imported in cask and bottled himself, as was my peaty nightcap. He suggested an Italian Liqueur to Joyce, which was excellent; although it was named after the King of Beer, it is based on Red Wine, not beer: Elisir Gambrinus (www.gambrinus.it). The numbers 12 and 14 tram and the 78 bus stop close by. Mulligans is open every day except Sunday from 7pm to 2am. La Ratera
This is a superb pub/restaurant, with an excellent selection of Italian and Belgian Beers. It is run by award-winning home brewer, Marco Rinaldi, who can be seen in the photo above left; in the background is Jessie de Four, from a famous speciality Beer establishment, in Belgium, see below. The draught beers featured in the photo are, from left to right: Baladin Isaac (details can be obtained by clicking here); Fleurette, Tipopils, and Bibock, from the Birrificio Italiano, click here for more details; Achouffe's La Chouffe (www.achouffe.be), from Belgium; and Baladin Super. In the picture, above right, which was taken by Joyce White, in October, 2004, are: Joost de Four, see below, Lorenzo, La Ratera's chef, Davide Negri, see below, and John White.
The photo above right of John and Joyce White, with Lorenzo in the background, was taken by Jessie de Four, in October, 2004. On the table is a "Tubo" of Cantillon Lambic. In the photo on the left, which was taken by John White at the same time, Lorenzo is holding a bottle of Bombal (6.3%), which has the same ABV as the great Belgian Trappist beer, Orval (www.orval.be, White Beer Travels Web page). This is one of only ten bottles produced by one of Lorenzo's home brewing friends from Milan, Massimo (Mega Max) Bombino. Clearly, it is a take on Orval and indeed, is in an Orval bottle. The home-produced label declares it to be an "Original Teppist Beer" (Original Hooligan's Beer), with an OG of 1.065 and an FG of 1.015. The shirt that Lorenzo has temporarily donned for the photo, as can be seen, has cows on it, these being related to the meaning of his surname, Dabove. Here, Lorenzo organised an excellent beer cuisine meal (well a Lambic cuisine meal). The place has a superb beer list, which as well as featuring world-class beers from Belgium and elsewhere, has some superlative Italian brews from breweries such as Le Baladin (www.birreria.com) and from two brewery that were visited during the trip: Birrificio Lambrate, see above; and Birrificio Italiano. Before the trip, Lorenzo had introduced me to some superb Italian beers at the Great British Beer Festival, in London, see above, so I could not wait to try some more. The prices (October, 2004) of the draught beers featured above left are: Isaac, Tipopils, and Bibock, all at €3.10 (30cl), €18 (Tubo); Fleurette at €3 (25cl), €20 (Tubo); La Chouffe at €3.10 (25cl), €5 (40cl), €22 (Tubo); and Baladin Super at €3.10 (25cl), €4.70 (40cl), €20 (Tubo). Bottled beers include: Dupont's Moinette Blonde, Abbaye des Rocs, Baladin Nora, Wayan and Nöel, all at €12 (75cl); Birrificio Italiano's Cassissona at €13 (75cl); Riedenburger Weizen; Schlenkerla Rauchbier (50cl) and Orval (33cl), both at €6; De "Proef" Brouwerij's Bloemenbier (Flower Beer) at €5.50 (33cl); and De Dollebrouwers' Arabier at €6.50 (33cl), and their Oerbier and Boskeun, both at €7 (33cl). As we had a special meal on our October, 2004 visit, I did not check out all that was available in the food line, but noted the following on a blackboard: Pizza al Trancio (Slice of Pizza) and Focaccio di Recco, both at €3.50; Bruschette (Toasted and Garnished Bread) in the range €2.50-4; Taglieri, see above, in the range €7-9; Salsicce di Norimberga con Crauti & Senape (Nürnberger (Nuremberg Sausages) with Sauerkraut and Mustard) at €7; Strudel at €3.50; and Dolci del Giorno (Dessert of the Day) at €4. The meal in La Ratera was accompanied by "Tubes" of two year old (2002) Lambic from Cantillon (www.cantillon.be, White Beer Travels Web page) that had been filled from a cask, just prior to serving, see the photo above right. Fittingly, Joost de Four, of De Heeren van Liedekercke (www.come.to/heerenvanliedekercke), was present, with his wife Jessie. This very special bar, in Denderleeuw, has by far the biggest selection of Lambics in Belgium. Click here for the White Beer Travels Web page covering De Heeren van Liedekercke. The meal was prepared by La Ratera's renowned chef, Davide Negri. Outside, to complement the extremely pleasant and atmospheric rooms, there is a nice heated terrace. The proprietor, Marco is a jazz fan and trumpet player, and thus there is regular, live jazz. The background music is unobtrusive, top-class jazz; posters featuring jazz giants Herbie Hancock, Miles Davis and Sonny Rollins adorn the walls of the cellar downstairs where the live music takes place, which was the venue for the Lambic meal that we had. La Ratera is in the suburb of Trenno, which is eight kilometres (five miles) to the NW of the city centre. Trenno can be reached on the number 80 ATM urbani bus from the city centre, which goes between De Angeli and Bonola. It is a short walk from the bus stop in the square (Piazza) in Trenno, to La Ratera. La Ratera is not open on Mondays. A Tutta Birra
In the photo, above left, which was taken by Joyce White, in September, 2004, John and Lorenzo are standing outside A Tutta Birra, Flavia Nasini's superb beer shop, in Milan. This is the importer of the Silenrieux beers mentioned above. Lorenzo tells me that "A Tutta Birra" usually means "Runs Faster", and that this expression is derived from the fact that British race horse trainers once gave beer to their charges to make them go faster. Of course, the shop does not have "All The Beers" ("tutta" being the feminine form of "all"), but over 500, with many rarities, from Belgium, the UK, The Netherlands and Italy, etc. There are over 200 Belgian Beers. The photo above right, which was taken by John White, in September, 2004, shows a selection of the shop's German beers, the second on the right on the lower shelf being Schlenkerla Rauchbier (Smoke Beer) (www.schlenkerla.de, www.smokebeer.com (English pages), White Beer Travels Web page) from Bamberg, at €3.10 (50cl). Example Belgian Beers include; Silenrieux's Le Pavé de l'Ours at €2.60 (33cl), see above; Dupont's Avec les Bon Vœux de la Brasserie at €7.25 (75cl); and Cantillon Rosé de Gambrinus at €7.75 (75cl). The wonderful beers from Le Baladin, even in a beer shop, do not come cheap, this being emphasised by the fact that they are significantly more expensive than the Cantillon Framboise (Raspberry Beer) exampled in the previous sentence, i.e. Baladin Nora, for example, is €9.30 (75cl). But then, these are great beers, superbly presented. Click here for more information on Le Baladin and a photo of the shelf in the shop featuring the brewery's beers. A Tutta Birra's website offers far more than just information on its products; it is unquestionably one of the best source of info on Speciality Beer in Italy. It has some English pages. Kuaska has provided a lot of the site's content. The shop is 2.5 kilometres (1.5 miles) NE of the city centre, near the Porta Venezia (Venice Gate), the nearest Metro (Underground Station) being called "Porta Venezia" on Line 1. A Tutta Birra is open from 9.30am to 1pm and from 4pm to 7.30pm (only in the afternoon on Mondays). Ignoring places, such as Heineken Italia, which produces beers that I do not like to mention on my Web pages, two Brew Pubs and the don't-miss Lambrate Brewery, covered above, are the full complement of brewing establishments in Milan. We could have perhaps fitted one of the Brew Pubs in on this trip, but Lorenzo is gloriously truthful when it comes to saying whether he likes a beer or not or how it is served in a particular bar, to the point where one of these Brew Pubs has a sign saying "No dogs or Kuaska". There are also other bars which have a good selection of Artisanal Beers, for example, Hop, at viale Regina Margherita 4 (tel 02 54 12 26 90). This was not on Kuaska's itinerary and I have not visited it myself; I found it in a Milan listings book that I picked up in our hotel foyer, this being the Hotel Berlino (via Plana 5, tel 02 32 41 41, www.hotelberlino.it), which was close to where Lorenzo lives in Milan. General Tourist Places Visited in Milan Lorenzo took us to a couple of places and we also had one day free, the top-class places visited or passed by or through, being: the Castello Sforzesco (www.milanocastello.it), a superb castle; the refectory of the Santa maria delle Grazie church, which houses Michelangelo's Last Supper (Cenacola) (www.cenacolovinciano.it); the city's two main Art Galleries, the Pinacoteca di Brera (www.brera.beniculturali.it) and the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana (www.ambrosiana.it); the Duomo (Cathedral) (www.duomomilano.com (stopped working in February, 2005)); the Teatro alla Scala (www.teatroallascala.org), the world's most famous Opera House; and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, a superb arcade lined with the most elegant of cafés and shops, including those of the city's particularly famous fashion houses. The city's official tourist information website is www.milanoinfotourist.it. Another very good site for tourist information is www.hellomilano.it, which is the on-line companion to hello Milano, a very useful English-language newspaper-style guide to the city that is available free-of-charge in places such as hotel reception areas. It advices prebooking for the "Last Supper", using the phone number 02 8942 1146, but on our October visit, this did not prove necessary, although there was quite a queue. Milan's excellent public transport system is run by a company called ATM (www.atm-mi.it). Florence, the capital of the Tuscany (Toscana) Region of Italy, houses some of the world's greatest tourist attractions, and we did the principal sites during our stay here, such as: the Uffizi Gallery (www.uffizi.firenze.it) (the Theresianer beer (€5.50 for a 33cl bottle in October, 2004) available in the café here is a filtered and pasteurised from a large brewery, and thus is incorrectly described in its menu card as being Artisanal (Artigianale); the Galleria dell'Accademia (for Michelangelo's David, the world's most famous statue); and climbed the 463 steps to the top of the Cupola of the Duomo (Cathedral) (www.duomofirenze.it). A Pinocchio (www.pinocchio.it) souvenir was purchased, the author, Carlo Lorenzini (1826-90), who was born in Florence, having the pen name Carlo Collodi, the latter being a town close to Florence. The official Florence Tourist Information website is www.firenzeturismo.it. Note that, even out of season, there can be big queues for the Uffizi and the David statue; there are a number of websites providing advanced tickets at crazy prices: more than double. Ignore these and ring 055 294 883, you can reserve for both these places and more, the €1.55 fee (October, 2004) being well worth paying to avoid a long wait. On the Speciality Beer front, Lorenzo had pointed out that there was a brew pub in Florence, which was duly visited, this being covered next. Il Bovaro A report on our my October, 2004 visit to this place (without Lorenzo) can be seen by clicking here. Pitti Gola e Cantina Florence is just to the North of Tuscany's famous Chianti wine area, so it is not surprising that there are far more establishments specialising in wine, than beer. we came across this real gem of a place by chance, after visiting the Palazzo Pitti (www.palazzopitti.it), a famous Palace opposite. There is wine by the glass in the range €4 to €9. For the latter, I had truly superb glasses of Amarone from the Verona wine area, and a Barolo from Piemonte, see above. There are excellent snacks; my meatloaf, cooked in Chianti Classico, at €10, was top-class. Note that the designation, Chianto Classico is reserved for the best wines of Chianti, i.e. those coming from a specific part of Chianti. The best "normal" Chianti comes in conventionally shaped bottles, although many tourists return home with Chianti in unusually shaped, straw-covered bulbous bottles, which, somewhat amazingly, in Italian, are called Fiasco, which is related to the word Flask. The Oxford English Dictionary (OED) (www.oed.com) provides no clues as to why this word has come to mean what it does in everyday English: a complete failure, especially one that is ignominious or humiliating. Ristorante Perseus We had a number of meals whilst in Florence; they were mainly of the fast-delivery kind - pasta, pizza, salad, soup - as there were tourist attractions to see. The standard was uniformly high, even in the places where you are beckoned in, near major pulls, such as Michelangelo's David. This atmospheric restaurant, which I can highly recommend, was near our hotel; it was the only place where we had a leisurely, three course meal. Sausages and vegetables hang from the ceiling; there is a superb display of the meat to be used in the, well, meat dishes; there are shelves with old coffee grinders on them; it is very dark, with lighting mainly coming from the candles on the table; etc; etc. There is no English version of the menu, but the staff are very helpful; I was most pleased with my starter Grain Soup (very thick) (Zuppa Farro) and my main course of thin slices of Rare Beef in a Balsamic Vinegar Sauce resting on a bed of rocket. The excellent house Chianti was only €9.50. Il Birrificio Artigiano Whilst in Florence, on our 2004 visit, Lorenzo recommended that we make the eighty kilometre (fifty mile) journey to Pisa to visit the nearby town of Bientina, since his dear friend Rosa Gravina, the former brewer at Birrificio Lambrate, has opened this, her own microbrewery. Time constraints made a visit impossible. The brewery and an outlet in Pisa are covered in the companion Web page to this one; it can be reached by clicking here. The brewery and its barwill definitely be placed on a future agenda. Miscellaneous: Travel to Milan and Florence, etc The journeys in 2004 between Milan Bergamo Airport (Aeroporto Orio al Serio) (www.orioaeroporto.it, www.sacbo.it) and London Stansted Airport (www.stanstedairport.com) were undertaken using Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) flights. Travel between Milan and Florence was by train using the Trenitalia network, www.trenitalia.com. Some addresses and telephone numbers were checked using the Italian Yellow pages: www.paginegialle.it. John White (1945-), |
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